First of all my heart felt apologies for not posting ( such a long time) to all readers,sewists,subscribers of MTC ( My Thread Creations ). But you all aware about the reason for delay.Thanks for you support.
But the show must go on.......
So, let's start with our lessons. Today's post is about collar dress / mandarin collar. It was in the pipeline for quite long but had time crunch to write. Also I am busy with the science projects of my son, so more or less I am with him. In this post there are no snaps of sewing or cutting, will post when I'll sew .
The front will be drawn as usual. Cut the neckline b-c-d as shown till the red line.
a-b = scale/6
a-c = 5"
c-d = 1" or according to the need.
The back will have 1" more from shoulder side you can see the red lined part of the diagram.
1-2 and 3-4 = 1"
2-b = 1/2" (half inch)
2-a = scale/6
Cut the neckline of back.
Collar drafting and sewing:
1-2 is folded side.
1-2 and 3-4 = 1" this can be more also, as required
2-4 = half of neck round.(I prefer neck round of 14" or as per your requirement. )
Make a curve as shown and cut along the line 2-1-5-4
Draw the collar draft. Cut the collar on fusing canvas. Iron the canvas collar on fabric and leave seam allowance of half inches on all four sides of fabric and cut it.Cut one more piece of fabric same way. Now you have with you 2 pieces of fabric one ironed with collar and another without collar i.e single fabric. Keep right side of both the fabric together , pin it up. Sew along the sides of canvas collar i.e 1-5-3-4 but don't sew on the collar.Don't sew on sides 2-4 as this part will attached to the collar. Turn the collar inside out and iron once again. Keep aside.
Sewing and attaching the collar :
Make neckline of front part i.e b-c-d. You can see that c-d is opened cut. Sew this cut with clean finishing. Attach a rectangle strip of fabric from c-d on any one side of it. This strip will be used for fixing the tich button or hooks.
Now sew both the shoulder parts together i.e front and back. First we'll check the collar, so pin from the single one fabric side of 2-4 part of collar on kurta and see if it fits properly. In case if your collar fabric is more don't worry ( outside in the collar and sew once again from the part where the collar fabric was more ) but if it is less you will have re-draft your collar , and cut as per required neck round. Sew the collar to the kurta, now after attaching from one side of collar you will see that one side of collar fabric remains unstitched fold it on the kurta side and sew it. So now your collar is attached to the kurta.
Attach the sleeves and finish your kurta .
Your collar neck kurta is ready.
LOVE 'N' GRATITUDE